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Nuoc Cham (Vietnam)

2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 small, hot, red chili pepper, seeds
    and membranes removed
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 fresh lime, juice and pulp only
4 tablespoons fish sauce*
2 to 4 tablespoons water, according to taste

* Also known as nuoc mam, it is available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops.

Purists insist that the garlic and chili pepper be ground together in a mortar and pestle, although acceptable results can be obtained by processing all the ingredients in a food processor. The traditional procedure is as follows:

Combine the garlic and chili pepper in a mortar and mash with the pestle until a paste is formed. Squeeze the lime juice into the paste, then remove the pulp from the lime and add it to the mixture. Mash to a paste again, and add the fish sauce and water, stirring to combine.

Makes about 1/2 cup to serve 4 to 6.

Pork Riblets Simmered in Caramel Sauce (Suon Kho - Vietnamese)

Source: Los Angeles Times - February 6, 2002

Traditionally, the riblets were grilled over charcoal to sear in the flavors before simmering. Ask a butcher to cut the ribs, as this is not an easy home project. To remove the fat, the ribs may be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated. The congealed fat can be easily lifted off the surface.

2 pounds meaty pork spareribs, cut crosswise through
    the bone into 2-inch-wide strips
1/3 cup minced, grated or pur?ed yellow onion (about 1/2 small onion)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup fish sauce, divided
1/4 cup Caramel Sauce (in this section)
1 green onion, green top only, chopped
Steamed rice, for serving

Cut each rib strip between the bones or through the cartilage into individual riblets.

Combine the onion, sugar, pepper and 2 tablespoons of the fish sauce in a bowl. Add the riblets, cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight.

If necessary, adjust your broiler rack so that the ribs will cook as close to the flame as possible. Heat the broiler for 30 minutes to get it nice and hot.

While the broiler heats, take the ribs from the refrigerator and let them sit at room temperature to take the chill off. Place them on a baking sheet and broil until they're tinged brown, about 4 to 6 minutes per side; a little charring is fine. (You'll hear a pleasant sizzle as this happens.) Alternatively, cook the ribs over high heat on a gas or charcoal grill, which imparts deeper flavor. The point here is to sear the riblets to obtain a roastiness and intensify the overall color.

Place the riblets in a saucepan with the Caramel Sauce, the remaining 2 tablespoons of fish sauce and enough water (about 2 1/2 cups) to cover most of the riblets. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to simmer. Cover and let cook for 40 minutes; the ribs should simmer vigorously, sending steam out from under the lid.

Remove the lid and continue to simmer until the ribs are tender (you can easily pierce the meat with a fork or knife tip), about 20 to 30 minutes. If there's cartilage, you should be able to bite through it, with a slight crunch remaining. This latter phase of cooking allows the sauce to reduce and concentrate in flavor, and deepens the color to dark reddish brown. In the end, there should be a fair amount of sauce left.

Turn off the heat, tilt the saucepan so the liquid goes to one side and use a spoon or small ladle to skim the fat from the top. Adjust the flavors with extra fish sauce, if necessary. Garnish with the chopped green onion and serve with lots of steamed rice.

4 servings

Each serving, without rice: 429 calories; 773 mg sodium; 104 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 27 grams protein; 0.36 gram fiber

Low fat tip: Use nonstick spray for saut?ing the vegetables, substitute reduced fat sour cream and mushroom soup, and use 1 1/2 cups broth for the topping.

Shrimp in Caramel Sauce (T?m Kho - Vietnamese)

Source: Los Angeles Times - February 6, 2002

The onions should practically disintegrate into the sauce. Adding the oil at the end lends a bit of extra richness; traditionally more lard or oil was added than prescribed here to also give an appetizing sheen to the shrimp.

1 1/2 pounds (31-40 count) medium shrimp,
    peeled and deveined
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons Caramel Sauce (in this section)
1/2 yellow onion, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons oil
1 green onion, green tops only, chopped
Steamed rice, for serving

Place the shrimp, salt, fish sauce and Caramel Sauce into a shallow saucepan. Bring to a vigorous simmer over high heat. Add the yellow onion and pepper, stirring to evenly distribute. Continue cooking over high heat, occasionally turning the shrimp so that they're well coated with sauce. They'll curl up and release their juices to combine with the other ingredients and concentrate into a dark sauce. Add a little water if things get too dry.

The shrimp are done when they've taken on an orange-brown color and have a pleasant sweet chewiness, about 8 to 10 minutes after you've added the onion and pepper. There will be a few tablespoons of sauce in the pan. Remove from the heat, add the oil and stir to coat the shrimp. Scatter the green onion on top and serve with lots of steamed rice.

4 servings

Each serving, without rice: 229 calories; 725 mg sodium; 276 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 31 grams protein; 0.58 gram fiber

Chicken and Ginger in Caramel Sauce (G? Kho - Vietnamese)

Source: Los Angeles Times - February 6, 2002

The chicken exudes its juices during cooking, which adds extra savoriness to the sauce. The ginger softens and mellows, blending in with the other ingredients while still retaining its jolting quality. To crush the ginger, place the flat side of a knife blade on each slice and give the blade a firm whack with the palm of your hand. Crushing the ginger releases more of its juices during cooking, thereby mitigating its bite.

1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 (2-inch) piece ginger root, peeled, thinly sliced into quarter-size coins
    and crushed
3 tablespoons Caramel Sauce (in this section)
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons water
1 green onion, green tops only, chopped
Steamed rice, for serving

Place the chicken, ginger, Caramel Sauce, fish sauce, salt and water into a saucepan. Give a stir to distribute everything. Cover and bring to a strong simmer over medium heat. Stir again to break up the chicken pieces, then replace the lid. Cook for 10 minutes, periodically stirring to evenly expose the chicken to the sauce. The kho will send fragrant steam out from under the lid. The sauce will increase in volume as the chicken releases its juices.

After the 10 minutes are up, remove the lid and continue cooking to reduce the sauce and deepen the color to a rich reddish brown, about 5 minutes. Replace the lid and allow it to rest for 5 minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust the flavor with extra fish sauce, if necessary. Garnish with the chopped green onion and serve with plenty of rice.

4 servings

Each serving, without rice: 362 calories; 631 mg sodium; 148 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 41 grams protein; 0.07 gram fiber

Caramel Sauce (Nu?c M?u - Vietnamese)

Source: Los Angeles Times - February 6, 2002

The traditional method of making this sauce requires that you add boiling water to the caramelized sugar, which kicks off a dramatic reaction that's not for the faint of heart. The point of doing this is to arrest the cooking process so that the sugar doesn't burn to a bitter black stage. I find it easier to place the pan bottom in a sink filled with water. This cools the caramel down so that when you add the remaining water, there's little drama left. The result of both approaches is the same bittersweet inky sauce that's a staple in every Vietnamese kitchen.

1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup water, divided

Fill the sink with enough water to come halfway up the side of a 1-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Place the sugar and 1/4 cup of the water into the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves, about 2 to 3 minutes. As the sugar melts, the mixture will go from opaque to clear. Small bubbles will form at the edge and gradually grow larger, moving toward the center of the pan. Eventually, bubbles will cover the entire surface.

After about 15 minutes, the sugar will begin to caramelize and turn in color. You'll see a progression from champagne yellow to light tea to dark tea. When smoke starts rising, remove the saucepan from the heat and slowly swirl it around. Watch the sugar closely as it will turn darker by the second; a reddish cast will set in (think the color of a big and bold red wine) as the bubbles become a lovely burnt orange. Pay attention to the color of the caramel underneath the bubbles. When the caramel color is that of black coffee or molasses, place the pan in the sink to stop the cooking process. The hot pan bottom will sizzle upon contact and the bubble action will subside.

Add the remaining 1/2 cup of water (there may be a small dramatic reaction) and place the saucepan back on the stove over medium heat, stirring until the caramel has dissolved into the water. The result will be slightly viscous; flavor-wise, it will be bittersweet. Pour the caramel sauce into a small glass jar and let it cool; it will thicken further. Store indefinitely in your kitchen cupboard.

Yield: 1 cup

Each tablespoon: 39 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 0 saturated fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber

Grape Leaf Beef (Bo Cuon La Nho)

Source: The Vietnamese Cookbook by Diana My Tran

1/2 cup lemongrass, finely minced
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon oil
2 scallions, finely sliced
1 jar grape leaves, rinsed and spread out
12 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for at least 10 minutes
Sweet and Sour Fish Sauce

Using a mini food processor, finely mince lemongrass, onion and garlic.

In a large mixing bowl, knead together lemongrass mixture, ground beef, salt, pepper, sugar, oyster sauce, cornstarch, oil and scallions. Set aside for 15 minutes.

Place 1 1/2 tablespoons of filling on each grape leaf one inch from the edge nearest you. Form a 2-inch-long sausage. Fold inward both sides of leaf, and pressing down the mixture, fold over top of leaf and roll up. Repeat with remaining beef mixture. Thread three rolls on each bamboo skewer. Barbecue beef skewers over hot coals or in a 400 degree F oven, turning frequently for approximately 10 minutes until cooked through.

Serve with Sweet and Sour Fish Sauce as an appetizer, or with rice noodles as an entree.

Serves 4.

Per serving: 395 calories; 23.3 g fat (8.8 g saturated fat; 53 percent calories from fat); 13.6 g carbohydrates; 104 mg cholesterol; 2,860 mg sodium; 31.9 g protein; 1.3 g fiber

Vietnamese Banana Fritters

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 egg, beaten
1/4 cup milk
5 small, firm bananas
Peanut oil (for frying)

Mix together the flour, sugar, egg, and milk to make a smooth, paste-like batter. Let rest for one hour.

Peel the bananas and slice each one in half lengthwise, then across into chunks about three inches long. Dip the banana pieces into the batter and shallow fry in hot oil for a few minutes or until golden brown all over. Drain quickly on a wire rack or paper towel, and serve warm.

If you like, serve them with confectioners? sugar or honey for extra sweetness.

Vietnamese Steak Salad (Shaking Beef)

This is the ideal one-dish meal. But don't serve it to guests who are squeamish about spicy, zesty food.

3/4 pound strip or porterhouse steak
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons olive oil
1 bunch scallions, chopped
1 tablespoon vinegar
Freshly-ground black pepper
Red pepper flakes, to taste
2 cups watercress, cleaned, with heavy stems removed
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
Fresh mint

Rub the steak with 4 cloves of the garlic. Sprinkle on the fish sauce, sugar, salt and olive oil. Rub it again. Let it marinate for at least one hour.

Fire up the grill. Marinate the scallions and the remaining clove of garlic in the vinegar. Grill the steak for 5 minutes on each side. Remove it from the grill and let it cool for about 8 minutes. Slice it into thin cubes. Toss it together with all remaining ingredients in a large bowl, and serve it with rice.

Serves 4.

Tom Kha Gai Soup (Galanga Soup - Vietnam)

6 ounces sliced white chicken meat
6 ounces sliced white onions
2 or 3 medium pieces galanga (Thai ginger)
3 (1-inch) slices lemon grass
1 ounce chopped green onion
24 ounces water
1 (2 ounce) package coconut milk concentrate
4 ounces fresh lime or lemon juice
4 ounces fish sauce
1 tablespoon ground red chili

Start heating the water. Add coconut milk concentrate, galanga ginger and lemon grass. Add sliced chicken. Bring to a boil. After the soup has boiled for 2 minutes, add the onions.

In a serving bowl add the lime juice and fish sauce. Do not add this to the boiling soup! When the chicken is cooked, place the soup in the serving bowl with the sauces. Garnish with the green onions, spice to taste with red chili and serve.

Yields 4 servings.

Vietnamese Lemon Chicken Skewers

Don't marinate the chicken too long or the acidity will "cook" it.

2 scallions, thinly sliced
Zest of 1 lemon, grated
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (nuoc mam)
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
12 bamboo skewers

Combine the scallions, lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, pepper, sugar, fish sauce and oil in a medium-size bowl.

Slice the chicken crosswise on the diagonal into wide strips. Place in the marinade, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Soak the skewers in warm water for 1 hour.

Preheat broiler or grill. Thread the chicken strips onto the skewers. Broil 5 inches from the heat source for about 4 minutes per side, or until done. Alternately, grill the chicken for about 4 minutes per side.

Serves 4.

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